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The bridge

South Bridge Edinburgh: the viaduct you cannot see

Thousands of people walk along the South Bridge every hour and almost none of them know they are on a bridge. It has nineteen arches, it was finished in 1788, and it is completely hidden by the buildings put up against it on both sides. Only one arch is visible from the street. The vaults everyone tours are the space inside the other eighteen.

The brick barrel arches inside the South Bridge in Edinburgh

Quick answer

The South Bridge is a nineteen-arch viaduct in Edinburgh, completed in 1788, which carries a street across the Cowgate valley. Buildings were constructed flush against both sides, so only one arch — the one over the Cowgate — can be seen from street level. The chambers inside the arches became the Edinburgh vaults, let to tradesmen for about thirty years before damp emptied them.

The South Bridge, at a glance

Completed
1788after roughly two years of building
Arches
Nineteencarrying the street across the Cowgate valley
Visible from the street
Onethe arch over the Cowgate
Why hidden
Buildingsput up flush against both sides
Inside the arches
~120 chambersin places four levels deep
Chambers let as
Workshops and storageplus taverns, for about thirty years
Abandoned by
The 1820sno drainage, no ventilation, constant damp
Excavated
The 1980safter more than a century of rubble
Access today
Guided toursthe chambers are private property
Tours from
$20starting on the Royal Mile

Why it exists

Why was the South Bridge built?

A viaduct built to cross a valley, then swallowed by the buildings put against it.

Because Edinburgh had run out of room and could only grow across valleys.

The Old Town occupies a narrow ridge running down from the castle. On either side the ground drops away sharply — to the north into what was then the Nor Loch, to the south into the Cowgate valley. By the 1780s the city was expanding in both directions and needed road links that did not involve descending one side of a valley and climbing the other.

The North Bridge came first. The South Bridge followed, completed in 1788, carrying a new street southward from the High Street towards the university. It is a viaduct of nineteen arches, and if you could see it from the side it would look like a Roman aqueduct dropped into a city.

You cannot see it from the side, and that was deliberate. The value of the new street was its frontage, so buildings were run up against the bridge on both flanks from the valley floor to street level. The viaduct disappeared inside a wall of tenements and shops within a few years of being finished, and it has stayed hidden ever since.

Seeing it

Five ways to see the South Bridge for what it is

All five are free, and the first one takes about ninety seconds.

  • Walk down to the Cowgate and look up

    The one surviving visible arch spans the Cowgate. Stand under it and the scale of what is above you is suddenly obvious.

  • Notice the level change on Blair Street

    The side streets running off South Bridge drop away steeply. That drop is the valley the bridge is crossing.

  • Look at the doorways on Niddry Street

    Half a floor down from the main street in places. The Old Town’s vertical geometry is nowhere clearer.

  • Count the frontages between the Tron and Chambers Street

    Every one of them is standing on or against the viaduct. The street is not on the ground at any point along that stretch.

  • Go inside one of the arches

    Which is the only way to feel it properly, and requires a tour. From $20, and the chambers are genuinely inside the 1788 structure.

The chambers inside those arches are what every vaults tour in the city is selling.

The vaults, in full

Every trip, current fare

Tours that take you inside the bridge

Twelve tours, cheapest first, with which underground each one enters. Seven of them go into the chambers inside the South Bridge itself.

TourLengthPriceWhich undergroundCost per hourRating
Old Town & Underground Ghost TourThe cheapest hour under the bridge1 h$20The vaults$20.004.4 · 1,871
The Edinburgh DungeonAn attraction with actors, not a historical site80 min$24None — an attraction$18.004.6 · 1,716
Evening Underground Ghost TourThe evening slot in the South Bridge vaults75 min$24The vaults$19.204.4 · 4,063
Old Town & Underground Historical TourThe bridge and the chambers as the actual subject1.5 h$25The vaults$16.674.4 · 2,068
Underground Vaults TourThe standard vaults tour, most reviewed in the city1 h$25The vaults$25.004.5 · 12,500
Haunted Vaults & Graveyard TourA kirkyard and the vaults in one evening1.5 h$27The vaults$18.004.6 · 7,277
Late-Night Vaults Terror TourThe late slot, run harder75 min$27The vaults$21.604.6 · 4,571
Extreme Paranormal Underground Ghost TourThe vaults and a kirkyard, played for fright75 min$27Vaults + kirkyard$21.604.3 · 885
Multi-Sensory Haunted UndergroundThe original Blair Street vaults tour75 min$34Blair Street vaults$27.204.5 · 2,754
Small-Group Historic Vaults TourThe Blair Street chambers, in a small group75 min$34Blair Street vaults$27.204.7 · 614
Real Mary King's CloseA street the city built over in 17531 h$36Mary King's Close$36.004.7 · 4,457
Vaults Evening Tour with WhiskyTwo hours, ending with a dram underground2 h$39The vaults$19.504.7 · 2,798
The vaults tours compared

Common questions

The South Bridge, answered

What is the South Bridge in Edinburgh?

A nineteen-arch viaduct completed in 1788 that carries a street across the Cowgate valley, linking the High Street southward towards the university. Buildings were put up against both sides, so it is almost entirely hidden.

Why can you not see the South Bridge?

Because tenements and shops were built flush against both flanks within a few years of it being finished. Only one arch, the one spanning the Cowgate, is still visible from street level.

How many arches does the South Bridge have?

Nineteen. The chambers built inside them are what the city now calls the Edinburgh vaults.

When was the South Bridge built?

It was completed in 1788, a few years after the North Bridge on the other side of the ridge.

Can you go inside the South Bridge?

Yes, on a guided tour of the vaults. The chambers inside the arches are private property behind locked doors, and tours run from the Royal Mile starting at $20.

Is the South Bridge the same as the Edinburgh vaults?

The vaults are inside the South Bridge. The bridge is the structure; the vaults are the rooms that were walled off within its arches and let out as commercial space.

Go deeper

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